Bodegas Itsasmendi, Artizar, Txakolí de Bizkaia, Spain, 2016

The ultimate experiment for late-harvest dry Txakoli, aged in 2,000-litre oak vats, on its lees. Intense straw colour, with slightly developed aromas of ripe citrus fruit, wax and dried herbs. Ambitious, quite impressive. The proof of expert winemaking rather than an expression of a particular vineyard.