Bodegas Ramón Bilbao, LaLomba Rosado, Rioja, 2016

Pale, almost Provence-like in appearance, this mainly Grenache-based rosado tastes more like an oaked white Rioja than a rosé, though it hasn’t seen oak. Full, savoury, creamy and appetising. Drink with: Spanish fish dishes such as hake, gambas and paella.

One of the new wave of Riojas to make a Provence-style rosé , from Garnacha grown at altitude in Rioja Baja plus 10% Viura. It's spicy and aromatic, with notes of redcurrant and white pepper: refreshing, polished, and very likeable. This is a real wine, not an insipid pink drink, with generous, Rioja character.