Remelluri, Blanco, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2013

From the brilliant winemaking mind of Telmo Rodriguez, this field mix of Viognier, Chardonnay, Roussanne, Marsanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Garnacha Blanc, and Moscatel del Pais defies easy description. Think a squeeze of citrus zest, a clutch of wild herbs, a lick of wet stones. First tasted at the estate on a near-perfect Friday night in August, this wine has more than stood up to repeat openings back at home, and never fails to impress. Tiny quantities made though, so recommend grabbing when you see it.

Seven varieties - and not a drop of Viura or Malvasia among them - make up this very individual Rioja grown at an altitude of 800 metres. It's definitely a case where a blend is so much better than a single-varietal wine. Matured in a mix of concrete and oak of different sizes. 2013 was not a great year, but this has a refined freshness with a touch of minerality and wild herbs. From this vintage the wine is certified organic.