Gramona,III Lustros Gran Reserva, Cava, 2009

This blend of Xarel-lo and Macabeo, available in Spain for under 25€, shows that fine Cava need not be expensive.  It’s pale gold in colour with light lemony fruit, sweetened a little with the scents of aniseed and dry brush.  On the palate, it is concentrated, vinous and flowery, yet with ample biscuity fullness too: so roundedly dry as to be almost paradoxical, and given lift by the swarm of fine bubbles.

Gaining lime and toasty characters like an ageing Eden Valley Riesling, this is a dry, delicate, light-bodied Cava, yet doesn't lack in the concentration department. Fine, pure and driven, this spent 96 months on its lees and is now nicely maturing and ready to drink. Long length.