Fefiñanes, Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2020

At the pricier end of the Albariño scale, this comes from Rías Baixas' most historic producer of the grape variety, established in 1904. Quite a broad style, rounded in the mouth, with soft, peachy fruit, and a refreshing seam of mouthwatering acidity. There's also an underlying note of preserved lemons – combining zesty citrus character with a hint of salinity. A lovely match for seafood. Would like to see it under screwcap.