Mar de Frades, Godello, Rías Baixas, Spain, 2016

Experimental winemaker Paula Fandiño is best-known for her Albariños but this showcases her skill with another white grape. Something of a rarity, this is the first-ever 100% Godello from Rías Baixas, with only 2,100 bottles made. The striking nose is marked with membrillo (quince paste) and fresh citrus. There's more membrillo on the palate, plus apricot, fresh-cut lemon and some gentle coconut notes from lees stirring in French oak, all set against crisp acidity. A clean mineral streak runs throughout, with a fresh and persistent saltiness.