Beronia, Reserva, Rioja Alta, Spain 2017

For consistency as well as value, Beronia’s Rioja Reserva is one of those rare widely available wines that exceeds expectations and delivers more than the goods – it also conjures delight. With a sheen of voluptuous purity, the eighteen months in French and American oak coaxes a plush velveteen cushion for the fruit to retain a focussed core. The usual sweet spices are all evident, and with just a whisker of mellow warmth I’m happy to call this wine a modern classic. Created from vines with more than 40 years of age, winemaker and technical director Matías Calleja’s quest for excellence is one thing, but the dependable quality across his output is also remarkable. Pour this for a midweek treat or for a special occasion dinner – roast lamb is top of the list as a pairing.