Bodegas Ysios, Finca Las Naves Viñedo Singular, Rioja, Spain 2018

This small (1.1ha) vineyard is a regional treasure, planted with pre-phylloxera vines before 1902, on clay-sandy soils. The production is tiny, just 1,200 bottles, and the wine is aged for 16 months in a mix of 500-litre and traditional (225-litre) used French oak barriques. Tempranillo is the main grape, but there are also Garnacha, Graciano and Viura vines growing together, and the whole block is picked and fermented together to provide a true expression of this special site. Intensely aromatic, this has a gorgeous perfume of black plum, mulberry, red and black cherry, plus violet, some oak spice, and a twist of black pepper. In the mouth there's a distinct minerality and an almost menthol freshness, with firm black fruits. Power and concentration, but fresh and harmonious too. A long life ahead.