Blackbook, Controversy Pinot Meunier, England 2019

Due for release in September, this Pinot Meunier was supposed to be a blanc de noirs, but it ended up with an attractive, Provence-style coral tint. The grapes come from a vineyard in West Sussex, and are whole-bunch pressed and fermented in old Burgundy barrels; after malolactic fermentation the wine spent seven months on the lees, with frequent stirring. There's a gorgeous weight of tangy red fruit here – raspberry and redcurrant, with some fragrant florality. Lovely texture too. Shows just how great 100% Pinot Meunier can be – usually it plays a supporting role in sparkling wine. 80 cases produced.