Littorai, BA Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma County

Ted Lemon, who spent time as a winemaker in Burgundy, founded Littorai in 1993, and has made Chardonnay from this biodynamic, dry-farmed vineyard near Occidental since 1997. It’s my favourite among his four single-vineyard bottlings. Intense yet delicate, 2013 is all about length and structure, with a characteristic tension of minerality in the finish and very pure, exotic flavours of fruit and chamomile.