Rhys Vineyards, Alpine Vineyard Chardonnay, San Francisco

All four Chardonnays made at owner Kevin Harvey’s spare-no-expense winery are terrific. This one comes from a steep, chalky vineyard at 365m to 454m elevation, only 16km from the Pacific. I love its bright, racy, super-pure flavours, its coiled power, precision and focus, and its crushed rock complexity. Deep and full-bodied, it has the lean elegance and long finish of a top Meursault.