Stony Hill, Chardonnay, Napa Valley, California, USA, 2012

Pure and Chablis-like at present, its underlying fresh citrus, apple and pear personality is certain to expand with cellaring. Crackling acidity and minerality make for scintillating drinking now, but try to be patient.

Still a very youthful wine. Notes of crisp lemon, lime, tart melon and iodine precede a broad, textural palate with wonderful cut and energy; structurally this has more in common with a red wine than it does with a typical Napa Chardonnay.