As recently as five years ago it would have been hard to consistently find white Riojas on wine shelves. For many UK consumers, ‘white Rioja’ might in fact have sounded like an oxymoron, the region’s name being associated with the red iterations that have become pantry staples.
Scroll down to see notes and scores for 18 best-value white Rioja wines to try
However, in the third decade of the 21st century, white wines from Spain’s most famous wine region have emerged as one of the most exciting, fast-evolving categories not only of Spanish but of European wine at large. Today, most retailers list one white Rioja, if not more, and many – as is the case in this selection for The Wine Society, Tesco and Marks & Spencer – as part of their own ranges.
A fortunate combination of factors has allowed the style to increase its visibility and popularity. Greater demand for white wines, along with mounting prices from classic regions – not least Burgundy – happened just as Riojan producers rediscovered the region’s potential beyond reds, thus expanding their portfolios to reach a wider audience. For consumers, this means that a category that previously was mostly the domain of connoisseurs and collectors has now broadened its availability and its appeal – stylistically as well as price-wise.
Styles to explore
Most white Riojas are either single-variety or blends based on Viura. The generous-yielding, unfussy variety – elsewhere known as Macabeo/Macabeu – accounts for 68% of the area planted to white grapes in Rioja (and 6.1% of total vineyard area, according to DOCa Rioja data) and this dominance is reflected in the wines’ makeup. Winemakers explore Viura’s aromatic and textural potential differently, though, with some examples relying more on the exuberant orchard fruit and creamy citrus while others remain more restrained. Restraint leaves space for nuance, though, allowing herbal and vegetal subtleties to come to the forefront. Viura also has a Chardonnay-like affinity with wood, and well-judged oak adds a welcome nuttiness and smokiness for truly food-friendly – in many cases ageworthy – wines.
But winemakers are also taking advantage of the wider palette of varieties at their disposal. Of the other eight white grapes allowed by the DOCa, three stand out for their character and potential: Tempranillo Blanco, Maturana Blanca and Malvasía. Adding a splash of the latter to Viura is very common, lifting the fruit core with subtle floral notes. But I find that Tempranillo Blanco – a light-skinned natural mutation of the red of the same name that was discovered in 1988 in a vineyard southeast of Logroño – is yielding some of the region’s most interesting wines, both blended and on its own. With high acid and a poised structure, it holds fruit with ease while conveying a real sense of place.
Cellaring options
The selection of 18 wines that follows offers a great opportunity to begin an upwards journey; a first step in the discovery of wines that, at the higher end of the price spectrum, have begun to take up cellar space previously occupied by white Burgundy. From the lower shelf to the highest, there’s quality and value to be found. Many of the suggestions here have ‘bigger siblings’ – such as Sierra de Toloño’s Nahikun (2023, £27-£30 Lea & Sandeman, Ultracomida), López de Haro’s Classica Gran Reserva (2013, £42.95-£46.50 NY Wines, The Good Spirits Co), or Muga’s Flor de Muga (2021, £36 Laithwaites) – which you might want to discover if you’ve enjoyed their more affordable counterparts.
