The day's top wines live from the Burgundy 2009 en primeur tastings in London
Côte d’Or
By Stephen Brook
The onslaught of tastings this week finally came to an end this morning. I began with flights of wines from Pierre André, the Corton-based négociant. In the past these were often lacklustre wines, but they have improved steadily in recent years, and the 2009s, while not the most thrilling or profound wines of this vintage, are very well made and consistent in quality. Then on to Lea & Sandeman, where at least 100 wines were lined up in a cellar about the size of an average bathroom. Not ideal tasting conditions but, as always, enthralling wines, many of them exclusive to this small London chain. It’s good to see new names cropping up, and Lea & Sandeman are bringing in the acclaimed Perrot-Minot wines, though they are a bit oaky for my tastes (and very expensive). I was also pleased to discover the Meursaults from Henri Darnat at the Corney & Barrow tasting yesterday. They had just the minerality I hope to find in good Meursault, and prices were reasonable.
There are some years when tasting on this scale is something of an ordeal, and one limps home each evening trying to hack away at the tannins coating one’s mouth. (I find a glass of Mosel Riesling the perfect antidote to an exhausted palate.) But, to be honest, these 2009s have mostly been a pleasure to taste, both because the wines are well balanced and ripe, and because the overall quality is so high. A few growers disappointed, some were testing the market by overcharging, but in general there were few wines I would not be happy to have in my cellar.
Domaine Rémi Jobard, Les Poruzots-Dessus, Meursault 1er Cru 2009
(white) Lean piquant citric nose, with pungent lime aromas. Rich, full-bodied, and concentrated, but firm extract gives plenty of grip; assertive and tight, with good acidity and fine potential. Drink 2012-2022. (17.5 points)
£393/case (in bond) Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Henri Germain, Charmes, Meursault 1er Cru 2009
(white) Opulent oaky nose. Rich, bold, and creamy on the palate, with ample concentration, but it also has verve, and a spicy, tangy finish. Drink 2012-2010. (17.5 points)
£384/case (in bond) Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine Michel Gros, Clos des Réas, Vosne Romanee 1er Cru 2009
Exquisitely perfumed nose, a distillation of red fruits. Full-bodied and concentrated, but has a light touch, showing intensity and purity rather than power and opulence. Excellent balance and length. Drink 2015-2025. (18 points)
POA Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Domaine J Confuron-Cotetidot, Grand Cru, Charmes-Chambertin 2009
Super-ripe raspberry nose, opulent but not jammy. Juicy and concentrated but the tannins are dense and imposing; quite a powerful wine but it also has purity, drive, and length. Drink 2015-2025. (18 points)
£738/case (in bond) Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine Anne Gros, Grand Cru, Clos de Vougeot 2009
Lean intense strawberry nose, floral too. Medium-bodied but concentrated and tight, with fine acidity, a sleek texture, and a long lifted finish. Effortlessly elegant and classy. Drink 2014-2025. (18 points)
POA Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Chablis
By Rosemary George MW
Popped in to Justerini & Brooks to catch up on the wines that I had missed earlier in the week, as I was on a plane. They were showing Laurent Tribut and Moreau-Naudet, and in the spring they will have Vincent Dauvissat’s wines, but not yet. Laurent Tribut is Vincent Dauvissat’s brother-in-law and that is how he learnt his wine-making – and it shows, with some finely crafted wines, and sufficient, but not too much oak élevage. There were five Moreau-Naudet wines to taste, from Chablis Les Pargues to grand cru Valmur. Incidentally, winemaker Stéphane Moreau is not related to any of the other Moreau in Chablis. Then on to Lea & Sandeman who were showing just one Chablis (below). Lea & Sandeman will also have Domaine Moreau-Naudet, and Domaine Denis Pommier.
Laurent Tribut, Chablis 2009
A classic example of the vintage. Quite a broad nose, rich and nutty, and on the palate quite mouth filling with some rich nutty textured fruit and a good balance of acidity. Ready for drinking and will give pleasure for the next two to four years. Drink up to 2014/5. (17 points)
£120/case (in bond) Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Laurent Tribut, Montmains, Chablis ler Cru 2009
This is still in vat, and it will be bottled in the spring. Quite a rounded ripe nose, and on the palate quite full and leafy, ripe and ripe, with texture and substance and sufficient, but not an enormous amount of acidity. For relatively early drinking: 2013-2015. (17 points)
£170/case (in bond) Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Les Pargues, Vielles Vignes, Chablis 2009
(Pargues is a vineyard site) Quite a leafy elegant nose, and on the palate good acidity, with some rich, honeyed notes, but also with firm balancing acidity and a good mouth feel. Drink 2012-2015/6. (17 points)
£115/case (in bond) Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine Moreau-Naudet, les Forêts, Chablis 1er Cru 2009
Quite leafy elegant nose, dry and nutty, and on the palate, quite rounded and textured, with firm dry fruit. More floral than some. Good acidity. (17 points)
£165/case (in bond) Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400
Domaine Adhémar et Francis Boudin, Fourchaume, Chablis ler Cru 2009
I’ve always had a soft spot for the wines of this estate, ever since I first met Adhémar Boudin when I was writing my first book on Chablis 30 years ago. He is now a spritely octogenarian, and it is his son Francis who makes the wine. Quite a light elegant nose, with some leafy fruit on the palate, and not a trace of oak. Sufficient acidity and quite supple fruit, with some depth. Still quite closed; should develop in bottle. Drink 2013-2016. (18 points)
£114/case (in bond) Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Written by Stephen Brook, Rosemary George MW & Margaret Rand
