Roberto Duran is head sommelier at 67 Pall Mall Singapore. He started his career in his native Spain, working his way up through some of the country’s most renowned Michelin-starred restaurants, including Miramar and Mirror. After joining 67 Pall Mall in London as part of the opening team, Roberto rose rapidly before taking a break from the club in 2017. A head sommelier position with Joël Robuchon in Singapore was then the perfect stepping stone to joining 67 Pall Mall in Singapore as head sommelier. Along the way, Roberto won the title of Best International Sommelier at Cava 2019, and he is now in the final stage of his Master Sommelier qualification.
Roberto Duran profile image credit: 67 Pall Mall
When you think of Champagne, Pinot Meunier, as it has historically been known, isn’t the first grape that comes to mind. In fact, it’s often the most overlooked, with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir taking centre stage. The role of Meunier in Champagne is often relegated to a minor part of a blend, the forgotten child overshadowed by its superstar siblings.
But a trip to Champagne in 2023 completely changed my perspective on Meunier – based on genetic research, key institutions such as CIVC and INRAE in France now refer to it without reference to ‘Pinot’ – when I experienced its potential first-hand. In my work at 67 Pall Mall, where we have 6,000 lines on the Singapore club’s list, I’ve inevitably come across many Meunier Champagnes. But it was only while touring the vineyards of the Vallée de la Marne last year that I discovered a generation of young growers leading the way with new and exciting approaches to this underrated grape.
My Meunier journey started with a visit to Denis Salomon, a small estate in Vandières. I realised how versatile Meunier could be when I came across its Histoire de Famille cuvée – 100% Meunier grapes comprising 75% from the 2021 harvest, blended with the 2005-2020 vintages in a solera style. I was floored by the transformation; its colour was deep and ripe from barrel-aged oxidation, but the flavours remained full of vibrancy, showing off the minerality of the Vandières soil.
Moving to another region in Marne, I discovered another Meunier gem in Châtillon-sur-Marne at Cazé-Thibaut. I had the honour of meeting vigneron Fabien Cazé, who looks after 2.66ha of vines inherited from his family. His interpretation of Meunier is best seen in its Naturellement cuvée, a lighter, more elegant style framed by freshness and more restrained oak. They are two vignerons with vastly different Meunier Champagne expressions, but both absolutely remarkable in their own way. To me, the more oxidative style of Denis Salomon brings powerful new energy and dimension to Meunier Champagne pairings. It matches especially well with one of my favourite dishes, beef tartare, integrating with the slightly spicy seasoning and complementing the meatiness of the beef. For a Meunier Champagne such as Naturellement, a pairing with black cod would be ideal – as the lighter structure embraces the delicacy of the fish.
Outside France, Meunier is also making waves in England. In fact, Meunier could be one of English wine’s greatest assets, thriving on the chalky limestone soil to achieve perfect ripeness. I believe that the renaissance of (Pinot) Meunier is well underway, and I can’t wait to witness its golden age.
Discovering Meunier: Roberto’s top picks
First, try Denis Salomon Histoire de Famille NV (US$53-$57 Holiday Wine Cellar, Liquorama, Napa Cabs) for a solera-style oaked Meunier Champagne. In the winemaking process, barrel ageing Meunier gives it more personality through the oxidative notes of toffee, honey, black pepper and cloves, enhanced via the secondary fermentation.
Meanwhile, Cazé-Thibaut Naturellement Extra Brut NV (£47-£49.95 Sip Champagnes, The Whisky Exchange) has much lighter oxidative notes with less oak impact, letting the acidity balance out its body while respecting its minerality.
And it’s not just fizz! From the UK, leading Kent-based estate Gusbourne has produced the superb single-vineyard Mill Hill East Pinot Meunier 2022 (£35 Berry Bros & Rudd, Gusbourne) – the gentle pressing of the grapes producing delicately perfumed notes of rose, strawberry and dark cherry, with black tea-leaf aromas.
